I think it’s great that you can go to Costco or Best Buy and buy a DSLR Kit, but I don’t think kits (the camera and lens combo) are great things if your goal is to learn photography. Kit lenses are SLOW. When people buy that $700 camera kit they probably think to themselves, “this is the answer to all of my problems and it’ll do all the work for me,” but what they don’t realize is that the kit lens is slower than your old point-and-shoot lens was. So what to do? I suggest tossing the kit lens and replacing it with these five items that will put you infinitely ahead of that guy next to you in the checkout line who is perfectly happy with his DSLR Kit.
1. External Flash ($200-$450)
An image like this isn't possible without an external flash.
Sorry, but that puny little flash on top of the camera isn’t good for much, although it is great for triggering bigger flashes. When there is not enough light to achieve a shutter speed fast enough to freeze your subject, you’ll need a flash to fill in the gap. Spare yourself a few weeks worth of bad photos by buying the mid-level or top-of-the-line flash made by your camera brand. Nikon’s mid-level flash is the SB-600 and Canon’s is the 430EX II. I know you’re probably thinking, “I don’t like the way flashed photos look.” Well, if you aim it at your subject and shoot full blast, I can understand why.
What I use: I have a few Nikon SB-900s. It’s the most powerful speedlight Nikon makes to date. How do you know if you should buy the mid-level or top flash? Figure out the difference in price and decide if that amount of money is worth that extra amount of light? For everyday use, maybe not, but for those few times you find yourself in a dark room and you need to shoot at f8, that difference will seem like a bargain.
2. Big Memory Card (under $50)
You should be shooting in RAW. It’s a pain, but the rewards make it well worth the trouble. To shoot RAW files you need more space. With the price of memory these days, there’s no excuse not to buy a big card. Big enough would be 8 GB. (Sure, we’ll look back at this article in a few years and have ourselves a chuckle… 8 GB? That’s small! Back in 2001 my “big card” was 32 MB and I was happy!)
What I use: I have three 8 GB 300x Lexar cards, plus a grab bag of old 2GB and 1GB cards for emergencies. I can take about 600 RAW images per 8 GB card, and that’s plenty for me, for now.
3. Circular Polarizer ($60)
A polarizer can also help you attain a longer shutter speed.
A polarizer is a must if you’re shooting in bright sunlight. I don’t like shooting in bright sunlight but sometimes you have no choice. Circular polarizers cut down on reflections and allow you to lengthen your shutter speed or use a wider aperture, whether you’re in blazing bright sunlight or trying to streak lights at dusk. Sizes vary, so make sure you buy one that will fit the lens you want to use it on.
What I use: I personally love Singh Ray polarizers. They fit in a Cokin holder, which means I can use a single polarizer on all of my lenses, regardless of the lens’ filter size. These cost more, but one perfect image justifies that cost.
4. Tripod/monopod ($100/each)
Yes, I’m cheating a little since these are two items and you shouldn’t think, “do I need a tripod or monopod?” since they each have their own specific function. I would buy both. I realize it’s no fun to carry these around, but they are necessary. You want a nice night shot? You need a tripod. Shooting landscapes? You need a tripod. Shooting your son or daughter’s soccer game? You need a monopod. If you’re shooting with a long lens (200mm or higher) you NEED a monopod to cut down on camera movement. It’s hard enough freezing movement on the field without introducing movement on your end. Need to follow action? You can turn on a dime with a monopod, because they are easy to maneuver. Using a monopod also means you don’t have to bear the weight of your long lens and camera; you can let the ground support it.
If you’re trying to keep your camera perfectly still, you need the extra support of a tripod. Which tripod you choose depends on your budget, how much support you need, and how much weight you’re willing to lug around.
Professional tripods and monopods come in two parts—legs and the head. You can mix and match them to fit your needs.
What I use: Tripod Legs: Bogen/Manfrotto 3001; Tripod Head: 322RC2 Joystick Head.
This combo is relatively lightweight and easy to maneuver. It doesn’t support as much weight as other combos, but it works well for what I need.
Monopod: Giottos 5 section Aluminum Monopod;Monopod Head: 234RC Swivel Tilt Head for Monopods
5. 50mm f1.8 lens ($100) Nikon Version/Canon Version
Having a 50mm lens is like having a turbo boost in your bag without the typical high cost of a fast lens. You can buy yourself a 50mm f1.8 lens for around $100. If you want those nice blurred backgrounds, this can do it. If you want to take a shot in low light without your flash, this can do that as well. If you want to zoom in and zoom out, this CAN’T do that, but for $100 what did you expect?!
What I use: I actually have three 50mm lenses: a Canon 50mm f1.8 that I use on my Canon 50D and pass around for people to try during my workshops, a Nikon 50mm f1.8 also for the workshops, and a Nikon 50mm f1.4 that I use on my Nikon D700.
Other useful accessories that just missed the top 5:
- White Balance Card – These are great for white balancing, but since you can shoot RAW and white balance during post processing you can get away with not having one. I use the Lastolite EZBalance Grey Card
- Flash Diffuser – These can help you bounce and soften your flash, so you won’t turn your subjects into ghosts. I use the Harbor Digital Light Box.
- UV Filter – These protect your lenses. I don’t know about you, but I don’t throw keys or loose change into my camera bag, and I always have a lens hood on when they’re not capped, so I go filter-less.
With so many lenses and accessories available, the task to figure out what you really need can be daunting, but these five relatively inexpensive items will put you well on your way to taking images that will impress your friends and maybe even make your spouse think it’s a not such a crazy idea for you to by that $900 lens.
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Hi Okello – I just took your class yesterday in Arlington. I’m sorry that I had to leave early and so quickly! First – a GREAT CLASS! I will highly recommend it to anyone with a new DSLR camera.
I do have a quick question. I was practicing yesterday in Aperture mode on my Nikon D90 and I couldn’t change the aperture. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong? I have an 18-105mm/f3.5 – 5.6 lens. I was trying to focus in on my dog or my baby son with the background blurred and I couldn’t get it. I did it in your class.
Thanks! Melinda Winn
Hi Melinda, thanks again for coming!
Not sure what that could be exactly, but here are the questions I would ask to diagnose:
-Are you in “shooting mode” If you’re playing images and try to change settings it won’t let you unless you activate the shooting mode by depressing the shutter button halfway.
-Are you using the front dial and are you spinning it in both directions?
-Can you change the aperture in Manual mode?
-Is your lens fully locked on?
-Are you getting a number for your aperture or are you seeing something like F–?
Those are the first questions I would ask. If that doesn’t help just let me know what aperture you’re stuck at.
Okello
Two of the 3 items that didn’t make the top five should be included in the top five already. For instance, when you buy a flash, a diffuser for it should be almost like getting the batteries or battery pack to run it. And a uv filter should be part of the purchase when you get a polarizer. You should have both filters.
Please do tell how a UV filter can improve someone’s photos and which item it would replace of those 5. I would hesitate to tell a beginner to purchase both a UV filter and a polarizer because I have seen quite a few times in my workshop people with both on their lens and just thinking that vignetting is just something their lens does.
I think a diffuser is important, but there are stopgap methods to get around having one from bouncing your flash off a suitable ceiling to taping a napkin over your flash. I will hold fast to my top 5 but good input.
Hi Okello – Well – I took your recommendation and I just got a new 50mm lens from B&H – price wasn’t bad with shipping included – $125. I ordered it on Monday and it arrived today. So – I’m getting the perfect pictures now! Thanks for the advice!!
First off if you are a person who photographs a lot of sports and weddings like I am, I hardly ever have the need in those situations for a polarizer but always have the uv on and aside from the practical use when working the sideline it is just one added piece of safety between your expensive lens and an accident causing a mishap to the front element of your lens so keeping scratches from happening a uv filter improves quality. I was saying you could get a good deal by purchasing them as a kit UV and CPL. So you asked me to explain how a UV filter can improve someone’s photo, please do tell me how a Polarizer will help improve the photos of a newbie with a camera who is taking pictures at functions to post on their FB or some other website. Every filter has a specific purpose and I think a UV has a more widely useable purpose.
Again with the diffuser it is just a small extra purchase with the flash and a huge plus. The diffuser will greatly improve the beginners photos since they have no idea about bounce and usually get harsh lighting in which the diffuser will soften that harshness.
Oh Mike, you’re underestimating the polarizer. It’s so versatile. First I keep a hood on my lenses so that’s my first line of defense. I use fast zooms so I don’t want a $50 piece of glass over my $1800 piece of glass. I also don’t want to spend a $100 on a higher quality UV filter for all of my lenses. I have a lot.
People that take my workshop are no longer newbies and they walk out knowing the value of a polarizer and they know about bouncing flash. That’s pretty basic. A lot of people don’t even have external flashes when they take my class therefore it’s more important to get them to buy a flash. Baby steps here Mike. Everyone can’t run out and buy everything at once so I want them to buy the important things first. Now, back to the polarizer.
A polarizer can cut down on reflections when you’re shooting glass, cars and water among other things. If you want a nice vacation shot where you can see the ocean floor, you need a polarizer for that. A UV filter is just a piece of glass, but if a fish jumps out and tries to hit your lens it’ll be protected.
A polarizer can give you a wider aperture if you’re trying to shoot outside with a lot of light. If can also help you reach your flash sync speed with a wider aperture. I would think if you shoot weddings you would realize it’s great value here. Sure, if you have high-speed sync you don’t need a polarizer, but it will saturate your colors more than if you didn’t have it on. If you don’t have high-speed flash sync it’s a must unless you want your aperture to be at the mercy of your flash sync speed. A UV filter can’t help you there, but if a bride takes a run at you you, your lens would be protected.
A polarizer is also a great tool for night photography. If I can only get to 2 seconds with the amount of present light and I need a longer shutter speed I can just put a polarizer on and give up 2 stops of light. That means I can now get to an 8 second shutter speed. Makes a big difference if I want a longer time to streak lights which I like doing. A UV filter is just a piece of glass, but I guess if my tripod fell over and my lens hit the ground maybe the UV filter might protect it.
So tell me again how a UV filter will improve your photography more than a polarizer?
I love how everyone’s a pro on comment boards. I wish all of us could be as great and knowledgeable as Mike. If Mike doesn’t like your Top 5, maybe he can mosey off somewhere else and create his own blog with his own top 5–of which a UV filter is ranked as #1. “First off” is the FIRST hint that someone’s got a chip on his/her shoulder. When “working the sideline” at the local Ju-Co…is the second.
First off, Okello, when you’re a PRO like I AM taking thousands of photos from the sideline using my Nokia cell phone, then you can EASILY understand why it’s important to put sunscreen on my 1.5 MP cell phone lens. I’ll have you know that an eagle ray jumped out of the water and pinned a woman down on a boat floor. I bet she’s sorry that she didn’t have a UV filter. Now, her lens is all banged up. Answer me that!
Here is a perfect example of when a UV works better than your polarizer. This morning over 100 kids participated in a triathlon on a cloudy rainy morning. A polarizer would not have been helpful in this case yet a the uv filter was a big plus. You tell me that this was info for newbies and then you reference your own personal style of shooting you can not argue both ends of the spectrum. Most newbies may take a camera on a vacation and possibly take some wonderful shots of scenic things and have great pleasure using a polarizer but most of the newbies are using the camera for everyday candids, like at a wedding or action pictures of the kids playing sports in which a polarizer would be useless. You can tell me all you want how in your uses it helps you immensely but you are not a newbie. As far as glass goes again you referenced your own piece of $1800 glass not the $100 piece of glass the newbie uses.
Interesting read here, as I’m a newbie, and am a tad confused by the seeming
overlap with UV filters or polarizers. First off, cost of polarizers seem to suggest I BETTER KNOW WHAT I’M DOING before I spend the money that polarizers cost. Second, seems like a uv filter is an inexpensive way to go to protect the lens if you want a low profile, rather than a lens hood. Hopefully, I’ll get to a point in my knowledge where I can make an informed choice.
Mostly though this exchange though, it seems that Mike wants to teach his own class. However, I’ve just signed up for the DSLR Workshop for now–maybe I’ll know more on this issue when I’m done.
Hi Okello -I’m now looking for a good lens for the NikonD90 that shoots longer distances. I love the 50mm but the only issue is the zooming in and out. Any recommendations?
Thank you,
So you want a zoom or a longer lens? For longer you can go with an 85mm f1.8 or a 105mm f2.8 macro VR. For a longer zoom, unless you’re OK with something pretty slow, you’re talking big bucks.
Personally I use both the polarizer and uv filter – but I would have to agree with Okellod. The uv filter doesnt give you better quality pictures – just another layer of insurance. The polarizer is kind of important in my opinion. Why spend all that money on a dslr and bother learning how to use it, then get cheap and not spend $50-60 more on an easy to use polarizer that will enrich the color of your pictures, protect your lens as well, and reduce any irritating glare?
I understand where Mike is coming from but I think he is really fishing for reasons here. UV is great but don’t underestimate the polarizer – the difference it makes, especially in the blues of the sky and water is worth it.
Here is my 2 cents worth on the best reasonable purchase to improve your images…..the Hoodman Hoodloupe. For about $70 you can effectively “see” your images in the field (exposure, sharpness, and composition) while there is still a chance to correct them by repeating the shot.
Are you still referring to shooting RAW vs JPEGs? Lol, You must live in Hawaii, right? I’m just thinking whether I’d rather use that when my hands are too cold to switch a battery (I’ve been there!) or worry about white balance and tweaking when I’m sitting at my computer with some hot chocolate. Hmmmm… I’ll get back to you on that!
Hey Okello. We’ve never interacted before…but I have been lurking on your facebook DSLR workshop page, and I have read this entire blog. I just got my first DSLR, a Canon T2i body. AND, per your advice a 50mm f/1.8. I signed up for the January workshop in Philly. I can’t wait!
Hi Tim, Great choice and thanks for signing up! I’ve actually realized that when people listen to me and buy what you’ve just purchased (and not having the slow lenses that come with the kits) you may not appreciate the speed of the f1.8 as much. It’s almost like buying a corvette for your first car and not realizing “oh, everyone else can’t drive as fast as me?” See you in 2011!
Hi Okello, I am a beginner with the DSLR who is interested in taking both of your workshops in Richmond. After reading the blog and viewing your site, I am a little worried that I may be overwhelmed with too much info at one time. What are your thoughts on this and what’s the average experience of workshop attendees? How might I keep from being overwhelmed and remembering how to do what is taught? (I know that practice will certainly help, but what else?)
Hi Debbie,
That’s what everyone thinks when they see my site, but the truth about photography is if you want to take great photos you just have to jump in and learn it. There are no shortcuts or tricks… It’s just physics and practice. With that said, we start at the beginning and teach you the basics. The people you see on my facebook page and on my blog were right where you are. They didn’t know what aperture or ISO was, but after learning and practicing they’ve picked it up. So don’t worry, if you can drive a car, you can work a camera. It just takes a little practice and before you know it, photography will be your second language.
Hi Okello, my hubby likes photography but with his job hours he has never had an opportunity to get more into it than the basics. My question is he has a Canon Rebel (definitely not current) and I’m getting him his telephoto lens for Christmas. Will he still be able to get a lot out of the class if he has a camera that is digital but not “current”? Also, he may not be a total novice, but isn’t an expert either – do your workshops focus on just beginner or can someone kind of in between benefit as well? Thanks so much for your time.
Hi Lorikay,
My beginner classes are really intermediate. It’s like when you call Domino’s for a small pizza and they say we only have medium and large… Those are my classes! As far as type of camera. Any digital camera is current. Newer ones are better than older ones, but they all work the same. He’ll be just fine. Hope he makes it to one of the workshops!
hi,
I received an early Christmas gift of a Canon EOS Rebel Ti. I’m very excited to have just signed up for your entry class in Richmond (Jan 9). I want a telephoto lens – not sure which one to purchase. Do you have a recommendation?
I have the “starter” lens/55mm.
Jacqueline (Jacque)
Hi Jacqueline,
Thanks for signing up! Looking forward to making it back to Richmond. Without knowing exactly what you’re taking photos of, I would just throw out the Canon 70-300mm f4-5.6. I know that will cover a lot of different situations and is relatively easy on the budget. I say relatively since this is photography!
Okello,
I may have done something foolish after reading your blog entry above, and I hope you’ll offer some advice. My wife recently took your basic workshop class in Alexandria, and asked for a flash for Christmas. She has a Canon Rebel XSi. Based on your blog entry, I invested in a Nikon SB-900 flash, without really understanding that a Nikon flash is designed to integrate with a Nikon camera (though it makes sense). While I’d really like to see my wife make the jump to Nikon over Canon one day, I’m wondering if I should return this flash for a Canon model? Is the SB-900 really limited by not being on a Nikon camera? Hoping you can offer some advice. Thanks! Jeff N.
Hi Jeff, I appreciate you listening to my advice. (I’ll be showing this post to my wife for sure!)
Yes, you should definitely stick to your camera’s brand so the equivalent Canon flash would be the 580 EX II. You probably don’t need that much flash and especially since you’re contemplating a switch you may just want to buy the 430 EX II. If and when you do switch you can just sell that flash. You will lose a little bit from depreciation so just make sure your wife gets her money’s worth while she has it. Good luck!
Hi Okello,
I’m 21, and just got my first dslr about 2 months ago. I have racked up 6 lenses included the 50 1.4, 70-200 2.8, etc.. I shoot in Av 90% of the time (with the rest in Tv for sports). I have never dealt with white balance, external flash, histograms, or RAW. I am really concentrating on getting great compositions at this point, and am feeling more and more confident every day. I have done HDR, pano’s, B&Ws, sports, portraits, macro, food… (I’m bad at landscapes, especially getting the correct composition).
My question is if you think i will benefit from your class? Do you have multiple ‘levels’ of classes? if so, which do you think i would fit into better? Thanks!
-Eric
Hi Eric, I think everyone will benefit from my class! My dad was a photographer and that’s how I got started… I would use his equipment growing up and he helped me in the darkroom from about 8 years old. Even so, my dad has learned new info when sitting in my class. First and foremost I would get you out of Tv mode. I feel like anytime you let your camera control your image you’re making a mistake and if you let your camera control your aperture, you’re letting your camera control your image so we need to get you to where YOU are controlling everything. The class will help you to tie up a few loose ends and get you to where you feel 100% in control of what you’re trying to do.
Hi Okello,
I came across your website quite by accident as I was looking up photography tutorial videos on You Tube (sponsored by Tamron) I am glad I did because in a short time, I got valuable tips from you and yet I m not even officially signed up for your classes!
About me, I am new to DLR photography. I own a Nikon D5000 with a 18-55 lens and just ordered a tamron 70-300 Di LD f/4-5.6 AF (no VC). I also purchased a circular polarizing filter (yes, newbie with a polarizer!) and MC coated sky light. For post work, I am getting lightroom soon, although I have photomatix and GIMP. Now despite having all this stuff, I am not yet very conversant with ISO/Aperture/shutter speed/Lighting! This is where I desperately need your expert instruction. I live in Laurel, MD and hopefully you will have a class within reach.
Do you think the Tamron lens I mentioned above will be suitable for a newbie like me in spite of no Vibration Control? I like landscape/cityscape photography.
Regards,
Ochieng
Hi Ochieng, It was no accident that you found me!
That Tamron is fine for what you’ll be doing for now. The good news is you have vibration control. It’s in your camera and it’s called shutter speed. Using a faster shutter speed will help to cut down on blurring. Remember, VR, IS and VC haven’t always been around so they’re not a necessity. People that rely on those to save they’re blurry shot will be at a disadvantage to those that know how to use their settings to get to a sufficient shutter speed so enjoy your new lens!
Hi Okello,
I’m very interested in trying out your class. I heard great things from a former student of yours. But before I do that, I would greatly appreciate your opinion on a purchase that I recently made.
I recently purchased a nikon D7000 and a nikon zoom lens: AF-S VR Zoom- NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED. I also own a nikon d5000 (+kit): AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G and AF-S DX VR Zoom-NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G IF-ED. Do you think it’s worth it to keep the nikon lens 70-300 lens f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED since I already have the 55-200mm lens? The sales assoc. told me that 70-300 lens is a much better lens than the lens that I already own. Is this true? The lens IS a lot heavier and bigger than the current zoom lens that I own. Does it make that much difference? It’s been only a few days so I could return the lens if I chose to…What is your opinion? Thank you.
Hi JL, I would definitely keep the 70-300mm. It’s a better lens. One thing I warn people about my class is my goal is to get the best image on your wall or your client’s wall. Also, photography and convenience have nothing to do with each other. That means the heavier lens is heavier for a reason… higher quality glass and heavier construction. If you knew what my 200-400mm lens was like to carry around you would probably swear off photography for life! But, that’s what I need sometimes to get the quality image I’m after. So don’t be scared of heavier lenses since that usually means they’re better. Hope you make it to one of my classes and if you do remind me of your post here.
Okello,
Great class last night at Arlington. I see the need for circular polarizer now. I use Nikon fixed 35mm f/1.8 and 55-200mm zoom lens primarily. I want to get the polarizer and holder like u mentioned but I only find 77mm on Amazon. Would this work with my two lenses? 35mm lens filter size is 52mm btw.
Hey Josh, thanks for coming. You would need a step up adapter to get it to fit. You may want to look at a polarizer that fits into an adapter like a Cokin adapter. If you only have a couple of lenses you can always buy a couple of filters and not worry about the adapter thing until you add a couple more lenses.
Hey Okello,
Great class the other night in Arlington (will definitely be signing up for part II)
I have a Nikon d5000 and wanted to purchase the 50 mm f1.4 lens, but of course its way more expensive because of the d5000 model. Do you still recommend this lens or is there another one I should be looking at? Right now, I am just looking to get away from the kit lens and try something else, that’s much faster. I also am shooting most of my sisters wedding in Feb, so something that could help with that would be ideal!
Thanks!
Hi Lucy. Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. If you don’t mind dropping $400 and change on a lens then you can. I can’t think of many things that I would love to throw over $400 at so an alternative would be to buy the 35mm f1.8 lens. It’s a bit wider so you won’t be as close and you can’t blur the background as much, but it’s an option. Now that one still is $200 so when you think about it you’re almost halfway to the 50mm f1.4 so you might as well grit your teeth and go for the gusto!
Lucy the best lens you can use for your sister wedding is the Nikon 24-70 2.8 . You can rent this lens for a day or 2 is pretty cheap .
okellod the Nikon 35 1.8 on DX cameras is like having a 50 mm lens Maximum Angle of View (DX-format) 44°
. Read the Tech Specs . In terms of sharpness there is no visible differences with the mighty expensive 50 1.4 .
Okello,
Thanks for traveling up to Philly for the class, part 1, today. Great class! I look forward to part 2 in April..and maybe even the Lightroom class too.
Thanks again.
Marc
Good morning!
I have a Canon G11 and I want to take better pictures! I have gotten some amazing shots but then can’t repeat them! I can go fully manual wiht my camera but its obviously not a DSLR. Can should still come to your workshop right? I want to go THIS sunday in Boston or to your March one in NYC if there is no room left. Thanks and hopefully see you soon!
Hey Gregory, I have plenty of Canon G10, G11 and G12 come through the workshop so you’ll be just fine. You will even be ahead of some of the DSLRs in the room. It’s a nice camera! Hope you can make it this weekend.
Your workshop was the answer to my frustrations. Somehow you make shooting digital in manual mode a snap. Many years ago, I had a film SLR and shot manually because it wouldn’t shoot any other way. When I got my DSLR I dumbed down and shot in auto, of course I felt as though I lost control and wanted more out of my camera. You made it a snap and brought back my confidence. I’m upgrading my lenses and can’t wait to see what adventures my camera takes me on. You are the BEST!
Okello,
I just found your “field trip” for Cherry Blossoms, but noticed it said intermediate. I have taken your intro “take your camera off auto mode” and wondered if this trip would be too advanced? I have practiced some and I am getting more comfortable with my camera. I would love to participate, but don’t want to get in over my head!
Hi Sara, you’ll be just fine. I just mean that you should be familiar with A and M mode. Since we’re outside it’s not the ideal teaching location so if I tell everyone to “open your aperture wide” I didn’t want someone to ask “What’s aperture?” That way everyone would have to wait and it slows things down a bit. As long as you have a good idea of those concepts you’ll be OK.
Hey Okello, remember me ! Lately I’ve been going to battle, with a lot of Cannon people about who has the better lens…… NIKON or Cannon? Can You Help A Brother Out ! The first thing that comes out there mouth is, do you watch football, or baseball… Just look to the sidelines !!!! Yes they do stand out ! THEY GRAY!!!!!! My reply is ………. Did you see C.S.I. last night ! Smile
Hey George! Well the truth is Canon needs better faster lenses so they won’t have to turn their ISO above 1600! All I do is show people zoomed in pics on my phone that are at 6400 ISO and that seems to do the job.
I Hear You ! See u on the field trip !
Hi Okello! A friend of mine and I met you at GASC in Chantilly and each bought 3 of your class certificates. I have a quick question for you. I am looking into get a prime lens for my D40 and can’t decide which one to get. I was debating b/t the 35mm f/1.8G and the 50mm f/1.8G (each is ~$200.) I know you recommend the 50mm f/1.4G but it’s a little more than I want to spend right now. I’m looking for a good general lens for family functions, etc. and I want to be able to take pictures when I attend births (I’m a doula.) I’d like something with the ability to give me some nice bokeh, but eventually I want to get an actual macro lens. Thanks for any thoughts/advice you can give me! Looking forward to you offering more classes in the DC area
Hey Tara! I never said I recommend the f1.4 lens for the D40; I just say it’s your only option. I was recommending people get the 35mm f1.8G, because the 50mm version wasn’t out yet. I would recommend to the average person to grab the 50mm f1.8G without hesitation.
Hi Okello,
I attended one of your Toronto workshops; I’m certainly glad you made it into the country! I was just doing some reading about the 50mm lens you suggested we buy, and was wondering about the ‘crop effect’. I have a Canon Rebel Xsi and I have read that because of the crop factor, the 35mm lens might be a better option (because it will in effect give me the same results as a 50mm lens) I honestly don’t understand it that much, but I was just wondering if you had any thoughts on this. The one thing I do know is that the 35mm lens seems to be a lot more expensive!
Anyway, any advice would be great. Thanks again for the workshop, it was very helpful.
Meghann
Hey Meghann, thanks again for coming! The 35mm on an Xsi Is really about the focal length of a true 50mm. That means that essentially I’m telling people to buy a 75mm lens. Since I’ve done so many workshops I’ve learned to not to even bother trying to go over the crop factor so it’s something that I don’t mention simply for the fact that “what you see is what you get” and all that confusing crop stuff goes right out the window when you’re looking through the viewfinder. As you noticed the 35mm is more expensive and my goal is to get people’s foot in the door when it comes to fast lenses and the 50mm is the cheapest option out there. It also is great for portraits since it is a little longer so I find that people end up liking that longer focal length better even if they don’t really know it’s longer. lol Get my drift? You can buy either or both even since they’re different, but I would say buy the 50mm and don’t worry about the 35mm unless you feel you want to get wider.
Hi Okello,
I took your class in Philly a couple of months ago, which was really helpful and lots of fun. I have a Nikon D3100 and was just about to buy a 50mm/f1.8 lens, as you recommend above, but I read that this lens does not provide autofocus for the D3100. A thread I found on Flickr suggested that the Nikon 35mm AF-S DX f1.8 was a good alternative. Any advice?
Thanks,
Vicky
Hi Vicky, Glad you enjoyed the class! This post was written before Nikon released the 50mm f/1.8G. Now that it’s out, that’s what I tell people to buy since it works for all Nikon bodies. The only difference between it and the 35mm is the 35mm is a wider angle lens.
Thanks Okello – I’m going to take your advice and get the 50mm f/1.8G.
Took your class in Vegas, it was GREAT!!! Learned so much. when will Part II or your other classes be offered in Vegas or California?
Thanks Martha! I may be back in San Diego in winter 2012.
Hi Okello,
I just purchased a Canon Rebel T3i for Christmas and want your advice on the best lens to purchase if I want to take great shots of my 2 small children (9 months and 2 years). Unfortunately, I made the purchase before reading your blog so I got the kit lens (18-55 mm and 55-250 mm bundle). Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.
The same advice I tell everyone, purchase a 50mm f/1.8 lens. They’re only around $100 for canon. The T3i is a good camera so that and a 50mm is a great start.
Hi Okello. Awesome site.
I am about to either purchase the Canon T2i or T3i. Do you have a suggestion on which to get? Also I know you think the kit lenses are junk—-so are they a total waste of money?
and last, I do plan to buy an external flash OR a 1.4 prime lense. Since I can only make one of those purchases, at least for several months to come, which would you suggest I purchase first? Most of my shots will be of my 17 month old daughter.
thanks for this awesome site too!
Thanks! The kit lenses aren’t a total waste of money. They just have their limits and they aren’t very good in low light. I wouldn’t choose between a 1.4 and a flash. I would instead buy a 50mm f/1.8 and a flash. As for the T3i and T2i. There isn’t a whole lot of difference so buy based on your budget.